you can use the existing studs; up to 3/4", you can install some lon-
ger than stock studs. Then you have to jump up to around 1-1/2" to
put on an adapter/spacer since you need to bury the existing studs
inside the adapter body, or you need to trim your existing studs short
enough to fit inside the wheel adapter.
what the 1995 and earlier Toyota trucks require. On these models,
the adapter and wheel are centered by the studs that hold the wheel
to the hub. You'll note that there is a gap between the center of the
wheel and the hub where they meet to allow for the centering to hap-
pen. Later model Toyota trucks went to a hub centric design where
there is a tighter fit of the wheel to the hub that centers the wheel,
then the studs and lug nuts only hold the wheel in place. So those
later models need to use hub-centric adapters or spacers to maintain
that alignment.
5,000 pounds. A 2014 Tacoma with the same drivetrain can tow
6,500 pounds. I want to tow a 23-foot Airstream travel trailer. Can
any modifications be done to increase my 4Runner's towing capac-
ity? Also, what kind of anti-sway devices would you recommend?
table trailer or towing accessory shop to see if they have any specific
advice. Some things to look into are a good hitch and then stiffening
up the rear suspension to handle the added load.
4Runner. The rear coil springs are likely on the soft side, so a set of
air bags inserted inside the coils could be aired up to handle the
additional tongue weight of the trailer. Or you could swap out for
a set of heavy-duty coils but this would stiffen the ride all the time,
unlike the air bags.
You might check out Addco. I know they make a rear anti-sway bar
for my 1985 4Runner: www.addco.net/aftermarket/.
trailer would probably be a good idea, tied into the brake light of
the 4Runner through the trailer wiring harness. Not sure if the Tacoma
and 4Runner have similar rear brakes but that may be one of the fac-
tors in the tow rating difference.
would explain wiring winches, lights, air compressors, etc. that you
don't need an engineering degree to understand. Simple diagrams
instead of schematics. Something scalable. When you can tie to the
battery directly or if you can use an open slot in the fuse box; when
you need to add a separate fuse box; or if you do or don't need a
separate/second battery and when it's really overkill.
wiring dual batteries, winches, air compressors and lights. You can
browse the links below.
I'll only locate the switch for a device in the cab and then run wires
up to a relay under the hood. I avoid using the factory wiring if at
all possible. I run my own power wire to a dedicated fuse block for
all my circuits. Then off of that, power is fed to the various relays for
lights, etc. Higher current devices need to be handled differently, so
a winch needs to connect directly to the battery with as large a wire
as you can afford.