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the front brakes. So grab the top of the front
tire and push hard back and forth. If you feel
a popping or slapping of the wheel hub, the
bearings are loose.
And to top it off, if the rear brakes are not
adjusted properly, the front brakes do not get
full engagement either. So the rear brakes
need to be adjusted tight but not too tight.
Pulling up on the parking brake will adjust
the rear drums (sometimes this can take
30-40 pulls, holding the lock button in). The
rear brakes are also designed to self-adjust
by travelling in reverse and hitting the brakes
a few times to come to a full stop.
What is the brake pad you are using? A
high quality pad or basic one? This will also
factor into stopping. I am a real fan of using
ceramic pads these days. The newer formu-
las wear long, provide great stopping power
and will not eat rotors as they did in the
past. So a good quality front pad is worth
the $60-$80 you may pay for a set.
Last but not least is bleeding the brakes.
With all the work your mechanic has done,
I am sure he has bled the brakes properly.
But if not, this could also cause the symptoms
you describe.
If a brake master cylinder has been installed
recently in the past, maybe the problem
is the link adjustment between the brake
booster and the master cylinder. This would
require the master cylinder to be removed
and the gap checked between the master
cylinder and the link to see if it is adjusted
properly.
How is the brake booster condition? Is it
functioning well? Has no vacuum leaks?
Usually symptoms of this are hissing of
vacuum when applying the brakes, the
engine almost dying or dying if you apply
the brakes.
Let me know if this helps.
Robbie
Mystery Noise
Hi Robbie,
I have a 2F engine. The stock four-speed
transmission and Orion transfer case are
filled with gear oil. The clutch was replaced
20,000 miles ago. The new noise sounds
like debris caught between two spinning
plates (clutch disk and flywheel). The noise
sounds like metal on metal but not constant
like pressing a screwdriver against a spin-
ning flat disk. More like a 1/8" diameter
roundish piece of steel rolling between the
two spinning plates, with an eccentric path
of travel. There's definitely something spin-
ning that is making the noise. The noise starts
when the clutch pedal is depressed and the
volume of the sound quickly diminishes in
about three seconds but still remains audible.
The noise started right after a recent smog
test. I had removed the plate on the window
to check the timing at home. It seems unlikely
but is it possible the smog technician man-
aged to drop something into the window
that is now caught between the clutch disk
and flywheel? I first heard the new noise
after the tech put the truck into reverse to
back it out of the shop. I had difficulty put-
ting the transmission into first gear. The same
level of difficulty you would experience if the
clutch pedal wasn't properly adjusted and
the clutch wasn't fully disengaged after press-
ing the pedal to the floor. The free play on
the clutch pedal was unchanged.
I removed the clutch inspection plate. No
debris found and the throw-out bearing was