this corrosion would need to be designed
and specified for our fuel today. If today's
ethanol sits in unprotected steel tanks, with
old rubber lines not specified for ethanol,
corrosion is a problem for the rubber and the
fuel tank, more so than for carburetors.
before the carburetor will harm the carburetor
far more (with rust and rubber bits that the fil-
ter may not filter out). The alcohol in the fuel
also attracts way more water into the fuel
than straight gasoline. The bottom line is that
if this Cruiser is sitting a lot, use a fuel stabi-
lizer made for ethanol. This will help a lot to
stabilize the fuel. Typically, fuel goes bad in
as little as 30 days.
like fuel injection a lot; it is one of the big-
gest contributors to us having cleaner air.
Fuel injection has helped us to drive quicker,
burn less fuel and emit cleaner emissions.
Systems that use an O2 sensor and knock
sensors can be tuned by the installer. These
systems are worth the money for quicker
starts, running your Cruiser at off-camber
angles without stalling, giving more power
and yielding better fuel economy.
care of, corrosion of the fuel tank and old
rubber lines will create the same problems
for the fuel injection as it would for the car-
buretor. Fuel injectors do not like water any
more than a carburetor does. But water will
ruin an injector quicker than a carburetor.
That is one of the reasons carburetors have
remained around for developing countries;
they can withstand much more abuse than
fuel injectors.
time in a while, other than around Lafayette,
and the clutch started feeling strange. It was
fine at first when it was cold but once it got
warmed up, after about half an hour of driv-
ing, it felt like it wasn't engaging when I let it
does when I let the clutch out but it was like
it was engaging a few seconds after I had
taken my foot off the pedal, if that makes
sense.
second time this summer (under warranty),
after having it changed in the summer of
2013. It just started leaking under the dash;
all the fluid ended up on the floor mat, both
times. So that was done late in the summer,
which was the last time I really drove it for
more than a trip to the grocery store or into
Boulder for the day. Don't know if that could
have something to do with it. The fluid level
is fine, right at full as it was when it was
changed out.
start up the Cruiser and get it warm and I
had the same issue. Barely any clutch at all.
I barely got it back into the driveway, in fact.
I did not try it while it was still cold though.
after sitting most of the fall. And after that
master cylinder change. Could it have any-
thing to do with bleeding the system? Air
in the lines? It was fine though after they
changed it. Drove home with no problems
and have driven it here and there since with-
out this happening.
disengage the clutch to shift or that the clutch
was slipping. Not being able to disengage
the clutch could be an air thing. Bleeding it
may help.
issues. Is the fluid level OK or has it disap-
peared? If it has disappeared, then the slave
cylinder or a hose may be suspect.
cylinders do not have much to do with slip-
ping. It could be that the clutch is on it last
legs or it could be merely an adjustment.
back of the pedal. To adjust, you typically
want some free play for the pedal. Most
people want to have the grab of the clutch
is a feel thing.
and you still have this non-typical feel to the
clutch, I would check the engine crank thrust.
You move the crank back and forth and
measure the crank's movement. Much more
than .020" is not good and the crank's thrust
washer will need to be replaced. So you
take a pry bar to the crank and with a dial
indicator on the crank, pry back and forth to
see the end play. If out of spec, time to dive
into the bottom end of the crank.
brakes on our 1988 FJ62 because it didn't
stop as fast as the rest of our vehicles. He
replaced the rear brakes and adjusters since
they were in bad shape and the emergency
cable wasn't working.
noticed that only two-thirds of the pad was
making contact with the rotor and he was not
sure why. He said he would have to pull it
all apart to figure it out. The brakes work but
there is a lot of pedal travel. Doesn't pump
up like air is in the line. We did have a HFS
4 inch lift kit installed and BFG 33 inch tires.
the brake pad engagement. The FJ60 series
of rear drums and front disc brakes is a great
system for the original design and I have seen
them work well with 33's. But what I have
found over the years is that the front wheel
bearings need to be kept properly adjusted.
If not, the disc will push the pads into the cali-
per (this happens will all disc brake systems).
If the wheel bearings are loose, the vibration
of the disc will push the pistons further into
the caliper, thus requiring the pedal to travel
further or even a double pump to fully engage