T OYO TA T R A I L S tains and cliffs on both sides of this storied river reach to the sky. We didn’t see a single other vehicle or person on the entire 40-mile stretch. I have been on some amazing roads in the world and this one ranks with the best of them. It was a great transition for returning to the relative civilization of Big Bend National Park. When we got to the National Park, we knew that the easiest, most convenient and spectacular beauty there is in the Chisos Basin. The ecosystem in it is different than everywhere else. It is higher, more wooded, greener and better protected than anything else around. It also has some wonderful views. That said, it is also very regimented. The campsites are crowded, each with a picnic table, aluminum shade, stone grill, bear-proof trashcans and “park only on the asphalt” signs. We knew immediately that this type of camping was no longer for us. Instead, we found a spot outside of the Basin in the desert flats, facing the mountains that hold the Basin. There we could soak in what Mother Nature has to offer, without hearing or seeing any other neighbors. We had brought our own picnic table. We had our own Park-approved toilets. We had everything we needed. And we were on our own. PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER MANN Signs of Native Americans who preceded the group. The broad Texas sky gives way to night. 28