T OYO TA T R A I L S The problem is that almost no air even reaches the rubber rectangular sleeve duct that attaches to the heater core inside the cab. None blows out onto the driver's feet or up onto the windshield to defrost. Since nothing has been altered since the summer when the heater and defrost worked, my assumption was that the problem was with the RPM at which the motor was turning. I removed and disassembled the motor. I had the commutator lathed professionally. The brushes and springs were inspected and pronounced functional with good spring pressure and still plenty of graphite life in the brushes. The brushes were scraped and evened out to remove scoring and pitting. The entire assembly was cleaned and lubricated. These measures created no change whatsoever in the effectiveness of the blower motor. I see four possible solutions but would like to know what you recommend. 1) From someplace like Cruiserparts.net or Spector Off-Road, purchase a working used OEM blower motor. 2) From someplace like J.C. Whitney, purchase a replacement generic new blower motor. 3) Refurbish the existing motor. 4) Swap out the existing unit for an aftermarket system like Vintage Air. Here is my assessment. 1) Since the motor is used, it runs the risk of being no better than the one I have now. I would have then simply wasted my money. 2) The on-line resources—as well as places I have visited in person like Advance Auto and Auto Zone—do everything on the basis of "year, make, model" and their systems do not go back as far as 1964. I have even taken all necessary measurements of spindle length, bolt pattern, housing diameter, etc. But none of these resources (Advance Auto, Auto Zone, JC Whitney, etc.) can match motors using measurements. 3) I have already tried this. I have lathed the commutator. Inspected the brushes and springs and cleaned the current motor totally. These measures have not improved performance. Is there a more thorough refurbishment I can do? 4) I am thinking that this is the best option to ensure a good, forceful stream of warm air. The downside is my truck will be less stock and the Vintage Air unit is ugly (though I'm thinking that the stock cover could somehow be modified to slide over the Vintage Air unit). I will check voltages at the switch and at the blower motor itself tomorrow, just to be thorough. What are your thoughts? Thanks. Reid Whitlock, Charlottesville, Virginia Member, Bay To Blue Ridge Cruisers, TLCA Member #5,132 FullPage(bw)wBleed 2/7/05 2:38 PM Page 1 P.S. I've got a tiny bit of additional information on my 1964 FJ45 blower motor problem. I checked voltages today. At the switch, I'm getting no readings—maybe I'm doing something wrong. At the 3-prong connector on the engine side of the firewall that connects the switch wires to the actual blower motor, I'm getting 11.34 volts. In the motor itself, a little more than 6 volts. Would you say this is the proof that the motor itself should be replaced? I come back to my earlier concern in this case, which is that I will end up with some used off-the-shelf untested unit that merely "spins." Hell, mine spins too but that is not cranking out the necessary RPMs. Neither Spector nor landcruiserparts.net (the two places I normally use) guarantee their moving parts beyond stating that "they are working." Reid A soft, clean bed is the perfect place for the trail to end. TLCA Members Save Our Best Available rates. Details at www.TLCA.org 20% Off 16